Going to fish for tiger fish tomorrow...

I'll be sure to post pics once I return, but this is what a big one looks like. We'll be on the lower Zambezi river.

Low Income Area

So, I just got back from a tour with a local group called Experience Lusaka. They take you through a local, lower income compound (this is the word that is used for a neighborhood, but usually the area is a little bigger than a US neighborhood, b/c there is commercial activity in the area, but it is still smaller than a town), where they teach you some about Zambia and try to let you experience a little how a large majority of the population lives.

The compound we were in is called the Garden Compound. It is called this b/c during the colonial times, it was a large farm, due to the fertile land. Now it is the home of the Lusaka Water and Sewage water treatment facilities, so there is a distinct smell to this area. Apparently they drain the sewage ponds (open air ponds) twice a year, and people will then go into the emptied pools and collect the soil as fertilizer.

Here are some pics of a local learning center that is funded by non-profits like World Vision and USAid. These are built in communities where you have a lot of at risk children (usually due to families being poor and parents not being able to afford things like school uniforms and books), and they provide a library and opportunities to work on laptop computers for free. Here are two pics from the computer area. The kids were working on math problems and other educational games.

Here you can see some pics of a homemade stands in which people will sell things like veggies, sweets and baked goods and the general look of a lower income residential area. You'll also notice the public water source from which people in the compound can collect water for their house.

This next sequence was from an unexpected but fun stop at a local gymnasium. The gym was super small. It was probably about a 10 x 10 ft room or at best a 12 x 12 ft room where there were about 8 guys lifting weights. I noticed that some of the weights they were using were actually large gears from some type of industrial use. Again, they were actually using large gears for plates to put on barbells. It was awesome. I of course had to get in on the action, and you can see where I was struggling on my 10 reps the Zambians told me I had to do (notice the old school strong man picture on the wall). The owner of the gym introduced himself as Big Robert and you can see me talking to him (bottom pic in white shirt), as he gives me a few pointers on how to not be a little girly man, while also inviting me to come back and visit his gym.

 

Here are two pics from a local sewing business that a woman named Charity runs out of her house. She makes things like purses, zippered pouches and oven mitts. These are then sold to vendors who peddle them at the local markets. She also teaches children and other women how to sew, so that they can also be self-sufficient. Charity is married, but as I understand, she is the primary bread winner in her family, through her sewing business.

 

For lunch we stopped in a small restaurant/house (10 x 10 ft) that a local woman ran. Here we had some local Zambian cuisine. You can see on the first plate kapenta (small cooked fish - kinda salty tasting) and rape (some kind of green). In the second pic, you can see the staple Zambian food known as nshima. It is simply ground maize that basically serves as an edible fork. You roll up a small piece of nshima and use it to put the other food on top of, then you eat it as one. It's not too bad. Basically, the nshima is a tasteless starch, and it all comes down to what you're eating it with that dictates the taste of the meal.  

Here I am with some local artwork that has been done on the side of some of the buildings. The first pic is of me next to a depiction of Oprah. Apparently when Oprah visited Zambia some years back, she had her picture taken at this location, so they painted her likeness there. In the bottom pic, you can see the little kid talking to me. Whenever I'd walk by little kids in the compound (being the VERY TOKEN white guy), I'd always hear murmurings of the word "muzungu". It means "white person", but it is not a derogatory term. The kids would often want to talk to me, stare at me or would sometimes give me a high-five. Basically, I was an anomaly that was out of the ordinary for them to see in this area, apart from other tour groups that Lusaka Experience took through.

As stated before, this is a low income compound, so here is a pic (not very good) of the scope of the nicest commercial area they have in the compound. It was comprised of a bank, restaurants, a barbershop and other odds and ends.

Despite what you've otherwise read, the most adventurous part of this excursion was documented in this picture. It was when I drank Shake Shake, which is a local line of beer that is served in a large carton, which you have to shake before you drink it. The reason you have to shake it is b/c it is not filtered like beer we're used to drinking, so there are a substantial amount of solids in the beer that are from the fermenting process. It is all very safe to consume, but that is of course if you are willing to deal with the WRETCHED taste of it. I threw back one small cup of it, as did my guide and the local DJ with whom I'm pictured (real name is "Linda", DJ name is "Cash Money"), then I gave the rest to a guy on the street.

All in all, it was a great experience. I was really happy to take part in a Zambian-devised business that is run by a few young men, which really provides a real look into how the majority of the population lives. I also appreciated how these men took you to local vendors and brought further income into the community through that.

Central Business District in Lusaka

At the request of my buddy Schneider, I've included some pics of the downtown portion of Lusaka, so that people can get a better overall feel for what life in general looks like in Zambia. In the future, I'll post pics of other areas around town.

Zambian scam artists

So, I pulled into a small specialty grocery store that is a little bit of a higher end store with a small parking lot. As I pull into my parking spot, I hear someone hit the back of my car with what I presume to be a hand. Hence the conversation begins:

-note to reader: the back and forth in this conversation has been condensed for the author's sanity-

Small Zambian man comes to Jordan's window: "Hey boss, did you not see the big man you just hit?"

Jordan: "No, he just hit the back of my car with his hand."

Small Zambian: "No, you hit him with your car." (note to reader: a lot of Zambians walk along the side of the road, so many of them are quite savvy at avoiding traffic)

Big Zambian comes up to Jordan's window limping: "Hey boss, why did you hit me with your car?"

Jordan: "I hit you with my car? Where did I hit you?"

Big Zambian: <motions towards left leg, below knee> "Why did you hit me? I am in a lot of pain." <starts moving his leg as if it very painful>

Small Zambian: "Yes, why did you hit him?"

Jordan: "Ok, I'm sorry, clearly I didn't mean to hit you on purpose." <to small Zambian> "
"Ok, you can go away, I'll take this up with this guy."

Small Zambian: "No, I am his brother, I must stay with him."

Big Zambian: "I need to go to the University Teaching Hospital for x-rays. My leg hurts."

Jordan: <looks at his pockets to see if any type of weapons could be hidden in them> "Ok, well I can take you there. Do you know how to get there?"

Big Zambian: "Yes, but we could just take a cab."

Jordan: "No, I would take you since I hit you, and I'm not taking him, b/c he is not injured."

Big Zambian: "But he must go. He's my cousin."

Jordan: "I thought you said he was your brother."

Big Zambian: "He is my cousin, but I call him my brother b/c we are close."

Jordan: "Whatever, I'm not taking him. Go away. You, get in the car."

Big Zambian: <gets in car> <*Mom, and all maternal figures reading this blog, do not be concerned, as Jordan is bigger than 98% of all Zambians and had the situation well under control.>

Jordan: "Which way do I go?" <big Zambian points> "What is your name?"

Big Zambian: "Michael. Why did you not let me cousin get in the car? You were very mean to him."

Jordan: "He can get a cab if he needs to go to the hospital. He doesn't need to be there with you."

Big Zambian: "I am in much pain. I will need money for medicine."

Jordan: <pulls car to side of road> "Listen, you have two options. I can take you to the hospital and money will exchange hands between myself and the doctors or you can get out right now."

Big Zambian: <thinks about it then gets out of car>

Jordan: <Drives off, then gets really ticked off and turns around to try if he can catch big Zambian walking down the road, not limping. Doesn't find big Zambian. Goes to the same grocery store the next day and advises store manager of scam from last night.>

The coolest guy in Zambia

So, this pic is with Samson, the grounds keeper where I live. He's 75 years old and works outside 50 hours a week. He also still drives. Additionally, he teaches me works in the local Nyanja tongue. His folks died while he was still a boy, and he was brought up by missionaries. He's been in Zambia to see the end of the British colonial rule, the multiple decade reign of Kenneth Kaunda, to the current multi-party democracy we experience today.

But none of that qualifies him as for the title I bestowed upon him in the heading of this blog post. The real kicker is that Samson, at 75 years old, still runs to work. That's 4 miles one way. 8 miles round trip. 75 years old. Stud.